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At this Shelby town festival, it’s all about love for liver mush

Liver mush is a very popular regional dish in western North Carolina. The annual Liver Mush Festival began in 1985.
Mush, Music & Mutts: Liver Mush Festival
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Liver mush is a very popular regional dish in western North Carolina. The annual Liver Mush Festival began in 1985.

What do you imagine when you think of a quintessential Southern breakfast? Maybe a plate of eggs, bacon, grits and a biscuit? Well, in one small town outside of Charlotte, that plate might also include something called liver mush.

The name might not sound appetizing, but in Shelby, liver mush is a celebrated dish with an annual festival, which takes place this Saturday, Oct. 19.

Emily Epley, tourism director of Cleveland County, joined WFAE's Nick de la Canal to talk more about the local dish and this weekend's festival.

Nick de la Canal: So refresh us: What exactly is liver mush?

Emily Epley: A tasty breakfast treat, not to be limited to breakfast. It is a southern pork product. It is typically eaten for breakfast and lunch. The primary ingredient is liver, but it's also other — typically from the head meats. And then there's seasonings and cornmeal.

De la Canal: And, I imagine to some people, it might not sound that appealing. But give us the sell. For people who love it, what's there to love?

Epley: For me, I like to put it with a nice fried egg on a warm, fresh-baked biscuit. You could add some mustard or you could add, like, some apple butter to it. There are a lot of creative ways to enjoy it.

De la Canal: So, I've also learned that liver mush is not the same as liver pudding.

Epley: Correct.

De la Canal: It's a little coarser, and it doesn't contain flour. And, at the urging of my colleagues in the newsroom, I've prepared some liver mush to try for the first time today. I grew up in Charlotte, but I don't think I've ever tried it before. So, at your recommendation, I cooked some in a cast iron skillet, and I paired it with a biscuit and some blackberry jam here. And when I told you I was going to try this for the first time during this interview, you said you were a little nervous. Why nervous?

Epley: (Laughter) It's one of those things that some people won't even try. I laugh because you couldn't have picked a less appealing name for a food item. But I'm a believer that you have to try something before you can say that you don't like it, or that you are sure it's fabulous.

De la Canal: OK. Well, I didn't even sneak a taste, so this can be a real first impression. So, let's give it a go.

Epley: All right. OK.

De la Canal: Yeah. Yeah, it tastes kind of like — a little bit like a country sausage. I'm definitely kind of getting the coarse texture. I don't think it's that bad.

Epley: OK!

De la Canal: I don't think you needed to be nervous.

Epley: (Laughter)

De la Canal: OK. So, as we said, the town of Shelby is hosting its annual liver mush festival this weekend. You'll have a liver mush eating contest, a pet costume contest — and tell me about this: There will also be a liver mush cook-off. How does that work?

Epley: Yes, so the cook-off is two local chefs. They are going to go face-to-face, and then there is a panel of local judges who will decide who the winner is. And [the winner gets] big prize money and they get big bragging rights.

De la Canal: What is it about liver mush that has such a hold on the town of Shelby and brings its residents so much joy?

Epley: Gosh, that's a such great question. It's kind of a festival about our heritage. We were an agrarian society in the early days, and people raised their food and they made the most out of everything. People worked in the mills, and they took liver mush with them to eat cold on a sandwich on their quick breaks over their work in the textile mills.

When you come to this festival, you're celebrating all that has been before you that has brought us to this point. And it's just a great opportunity to share that with many others while we also are celebrating it.

De la Canal: Well I'm going to finish my plate here. Emily Epley is the tourism director for Cleveland County where this festival takes place. Emily, thanks so much.

Epley: My pleasure.

The "NC Liver Mush Festival: Mush, Music & Mutts" takes place this Saturday, Oct. 19, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. It includes food trucks, kids' activities and more. Click here for more info.

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Nick de la Canal is an on air host and reporter covering breaking news, arts and culture, and general assignment stories. His work frequently appears on air and online. Periodically, he tweets: @nickdelacanal
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